B190 Enthusiasts

Hi guys, just got back home a 1998 that was in pretty good condition externally and internally. Mechanically it needed some replacement of worn out parts.
Bought it for $18,000, originally listed for $19,500.

Some issues it had:
The water heater pilot wouldn't stay light. Blows out when the main furnace turns off. Fixed by scrubbing the carbon off the thermocouple and bending it closer to the pilot.
Rust at the bottom edge of the refrigerator. Will sand and paint.
The top bunk is sagging, need to somehow brace it back up.
The old tires were dry rotted. Got Hercules Terra Trac Cross-V 265/75/R16 put on, didn't notice and clearance issues.
Both upper and lower bearings on both sides were bad plus the inner tie rod.
Windshield is leaking at the top during fast speeds combined with heavy rain.
Needs new CO, smoke and LP alarms.
Generator would turn over but not run. Apparently the choke wasn't on when starting, manually pushed it left and it started right up and ran with load.
Power seat will only move for a split second forward or backwards. None of the other controls work. This leads me to think it's getting power so I'm not sure what is going on.
Back door inside and outside handles stopped working. Took apart the door and found out that the plastic anchors are broken on both door latch cables on both ends! Tip: You can find replacement anchors on amazon that are aluminum for $10 to save some money or a buy a whole new set for about $20~35 dollars.

Let me know if you have any ideas on the top bunk sagging also. Thanks!

Receipt for the front end work:

Nice find!

The bunk is sagging? Can you post a picture? Ours is just particleboard, so cutting new pieces isn't a big deal.

skater wrote:Nice find!

The bunk is sagging? Can you post a picture? Ours is just particleboard, so cutting new pieces isn't a big deal.

I guess I should be more clear, the support on both sides is sagging, not the bed platform itself. It is actually pulling the cabinetry down on the sink side. I'll snap a photo when I get home.

Nice one! Congrats on the find!

It's almost as though it's pulling out of the wall.

skater wrote:It's almost as though it's pulling out of the wall.

Yeah, I'm going to remove the plywood on top and see what's going on.

tdashmike wrote:

skater wrote:It's almost as though it's pulling out of the wall.

Yeah, I'm going to remove the plywood on top and see what's going on.

I’m really curious what you find. I thought that stuff was somewhat resting on the shell (either the fiberglass top, or the top of the van), so it doesn’t seem like there should be a lot of reason for it to pull away from the wall.

Nice rig! It looks like the one I tried to visit last week in Athens, GA the day you bought it. Enjoy!

The problem seems to be that the front of the bunk is screwed into the side shelves but I don’t think they can handle the weight. The back side is 2x4s attached to the frame so that is pretty solid. Maybe it was redone incorrectly? I put in wood shims between the shelf and what is left of the metal roof, then more shims between the roof and body.
I just want to note also that after the shop removed the steering damper the steering was terrible on the highway. The van would sway back and forth a couple of times before stabilizing like it was oscillating or something. They told me the stabilizer was shot because the piston is really hard to move but it seemed to be fine when it was attached so I think I’ll reattach it for now before I upgrade to the Roadmaster. I am not sure how the cheaper ones perform. Mine came with Blue Ox TruCenter 25135 but I can’t find them anymore. If I install the Roadmaster I’ll have to drill holes in the frame since it did not come with the factory brackets.

Hey guys,

Just got back from my trip to Niagara Falls and Toronto. Gas is expensive up there, 125 CAD and the tank still wasn't full.

After installing the steering stabilizer, there was definitely less swaying. I also noticed that after dumping the tanks, the oscillating sway was pretty much gone. Didn't think the water sloshing back and forth would cause so much sway.

On this trip, the biggest problem was the refrigerator. It didn't seem to want to get cold on LP and 12 V didn't seem to be working well either. Today I cleaned out the orifice with a swab, alcohol and the compressed air. It seemed to have fixed the problem. I also went to Harbor Freight and got some pipe brushes to clean out the burner and flue tube.

Had a few questions for you guys in the picture below:
1. What is that hole next to the condenser?
2. What is that rusted out wire hanger for?
3. Does our van have ventilation at the top for the refrigerator? I think I see a vent on the roof but I'm not sure what it's for.
Flame before cleaning: (Is about twice as high with thermostat at MAX after cleaning the orifice.)

tdashmike wrote:On this trip, the biggest problem was the refrigerator. It didn't seem to want to get cold on LP and 12 V didn't seem to be working well either. Today I cleaned out the orifice with a swab, alcohol and the compressed air. It seemed to have fixed the problem. I also went to Harbor Freight and got some pipe brushes to clean out the burner and flue tube.

Well, ignore the 12 volt mode. Even in a new fridge it doesn’t work very well.

Had a few questions for you guys in the picture below:
1. What is that hole next to the condenser?

I don’t see a hole...there’s a loop of pipe that completely normal. Maybe I’m just missing it.

Edit: Oh, now I see it, in the back of the fridge! Mine either doesn’t have that or it’s covered by a panel... Buying it back... https://r.tapatalk.c ... are_type=t (hopefully that takes you right to the correct post).

2. What is that rusted out wire hanger for?

Excellent question - looks like someone tried to add something.

3. Does our van have ventilation at the top for the refrigerator? I think I see a vent on the roof but I'm not sure what it's for.

Yours does. They all either have a side vent or a roof vent.

Thanks for the info and picture. I think I'll just remove that hanger and maybe add a fan but I'll have to get 12V somehow since the 12V going to the fridge is connected to the ignition. The fridge has been on propane for about 18 hours and the inside temp is 38F, it's about 77F outside. I don't think it's getting cold enough, I'll try checking the pressure with a diy manometer today if I can.

I'm thinking about getting this: https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/dom ... 0173739012. The wire gauge is 10 AWG going to the fridge so that's good. Not sure about the relay that switches it on and off but I think it'll be fine.

tdashmike wrote:Thanks for the info and picture. I think I'll just remove that hanger and maybe add a fan but I'll have to get 12V somehow since the 12V going to the fridge is connected to the ignition. The fridge has been on propane for about 18 hours and the inside temp is 38F, it's about 77F outside. I don't think it's getting cold enough, I'll try checking the pressure with a diy manometer today if I can.

I'm thinking about getting this: https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/dom ... 0173739012. The wire gauge is 10 AWG going to the fridge so that's good. Not sure about the relay that switches it on and off but I think it'll be fine.

Does it work on 120 volt electricity? If so, the problem is in the propane burner. If not, then the problem is likely in the coils and it's basically new fridge time.

skater wrote:

tdashmike wrote:Thanks for the info and picture. I think I'll just remove that hanger and maybe add a fan but I'll have to get 12V somehow since the 12V going to the fridge is connected to the ignition. The fridge has been on propane for about 18 hours and the inside temp is 38F, it's about 77F outside. I don't think it's getting cold enough, I'll try checking the pressure with a diy manometer today if I can.

I'm thinking about getting this: https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/dom ... 0173739012. The wire gauge is 10 AWG going to the fridge so that's good. Not sure about the relay that switches it on and off but I think it'll be fine.

Does it work on 120 volt electricity? If so, the problem is in the propane burner. If not, then the problem is likely in the coils and it's basically new fridge time.

I haven't compared the temp difference between 120V and propane but yesterday I checked again and it was 28F in the freezer and 38F in the area below. Do these number look right? I didn't have time to build the manometer yesterday. I'm trying to make a pad for the van, hopefully I'll be done in a few days. You can see from the pictures that it's just grass right now.

tdashmike wrote: I haven't compared the temp difference between 120V and propane but yesterday I checked again and it was 28F in the freezer and 38F in the area below. Do these number look right? I didn't have time to build the manometer yesterday. I'm trying to make a pad for the van, hopefully I'll be done in a few days. You can see from the pictures that it's just grass right now.

What's the thermostat set to? If it's at max, it seems rather high.