I don't know exactly? I guess a 12-volt only would have worked fine. I don;t know if the NovaKool 4500 comes in 12-volt only?
After months of use, I can tell you it works REALLY well on either power source. I've accidentally exploded a few sodas and beers... I notice no difference in temperature or efficiency if it's on 12-volt or 110shorepower.
This is seriously the best upgrade I've ever done and cannot recommend this fridge strongly enough.
It looks like it comes in two versions - a 12 volt only model, and a 12/120 volt model for $160 more. It seems the 120 volt mode just uses a built-in converter to convert back to 12 volt, so it's not surprising it would work the same. The only advantage I can think of would be if, say, the converter in the B190 went bad, the fridge would still work.
I was going to ask how it was working for you - thanks for the report!
Ok. I'm ready to replace my fridge with either a Vitrifrigo C130(130L), or Novacool 4500(122L). I am thinking I would use a 12V only model if available to save some money. Does anyone have experience with these models specifically and have any reasoning on selecting one over the other? I am thinking bigger is better. Other than that, they appear to both be decent units.
Ok. I'm ready to replace my fridge with either a Vitrifrigo C130(130L), or Novacool 4500(122L). I am thinking I would use a 12V only model if available to save some money. Does anyone have experience with these models specifically and have any reasoning on selecting one over the other? I am thinking bigger is better. Other than that, they appear to both be decent units.
The NovaKool R4500 I detailed above worked great and was an easy install by referencing Patrick's video: (https://youtu.be/RfSRsoxON_w)
As someone else mentioned, a 12volt only version is available and is cheaper and would probably work fine.
If you get the Vitrifrigo, please please please provide us some photos videos of the install! So others can compare in the future!!
Is the black wire connected to the engine electrical system, or to the coach system? I want to install a battery maintainer, and if that black wire was connected to the engine electrical, it would simplify matters greatly.
Is the black wire connected to the engine electrical system, or to the coach system? I want to install a battery maintainer, and if that black wire was connected to the engine electrical, it would simplify matters greatly.
Hey, I think pretty much all of the wiring in the coach is isolated from the engine electrical by the ignition relay. That's why my solar array won't charge the engine battery. I just use a little battery tender connected directly to the engine battery when it is sitting around for more than a week or two.
Hey, I think pretty much all of the wiring in the coach is isolated from the engine electrical by the ignition relay. That's why my solar array won't charge the engine battery. I just use a little battery tender connected directly to the engine battery when it is sitting around for more than a week or two.
I know, but Airstream does weird things. Like random black wires that don't seem to come from the coach fuse panel, which would make the most sense...
At least for 1998, the 12V power to the reefer was tied to the 12V+ terminal on the fuse panel. This is a black wire. Between the panel and the reefer, however, is a 30A circuit breaker and a relay controlled by an ignition wire. After the relay the power wires leading to the reefer are green and white.