Buying it back...

[tdashmike]

At least the temps are good. Mine was 38F last night on AC.

Well, they're good until the sun hits the side of the camper...that's when things got ugly.

Oh I see. Maybe we could negotiate a group buy of 3 units!

[skater]

At least the temps are good. Mine was 38F last night on AC.

Well, they're good until the sun hits the side of the camper...that's when things got ugly.

Oh I see. Maybe we could negotiate a group buy of 3 units!

Good idea!

[tdashmike]

I was going to put in a 12V to 15V converter at the fridge and I was measuring around and noticed that the voltage behind the fridge did not change when the engine was on and someone today posted about having the same problem so I will try to fix that. I'm mentioning this because if the alternator is actually connected to the house battery, then the voltage should be much higher, 14V or above so the fridge should operate much better. For instance, Wattage = V^2/R so 12^2/1.15=125W but if the voltage is 14 then 14^2/1.15= 170W which is actually more than the AC wattage at 120^2/92= 157W.

[skater]

I was going to put in a 12V to 15V converter at the fridge and I was measuring around and noticed that the voltage behind the fridge did not change when the engine was on and someone today posted about having the same problem so I will try to fix that. I'm mentioning this because if the alternator is actually connected to the house battery, then the voltage should be much higher, 14V or above so the fridge should operate much better. For instance, Wattage = V^2/R so 12^2/1.15=125W but if the voltage is 14 then 14^2/1.15= 170W which is actually more than the AC wattage at 120^2/92= 157W.

It depends on how many amps it's drawing, though, right? Where did you get the 1.15 value for R?

I've always used W= V*A = 12 volts * 10 amps (if memory serves) = 120 watts. 120 volts * 3 amps = 360 watts.

[tdashmike]

I was going to put in a 12V to 15V converter at the fridge and I was measuring around and noticed that the voltage behind the fridge did not change when the engine was on and someone today posted about having the same problem so I will try to fix that. I'm mentioning this because if the alternator is actually connected to the house battery, then the voltage should be much higher, 14V or above so the fridge should operate much better. For instance, Wattage = V^2/R so 12^2/1.15=125W but if the voltage is 14 then 14^2/1.15= 170W which is actually more than the AC wattage at 120^2/92= 157W.

It depends on how many amps it's drawing, though, right? Where did you get the 1.15 value for R?

I've always used W= V*A = 12 volts * 10 amps (if memory serves) = 120 watts. 120 volts * 3 amps = 360 watts.

So V=I(A) x R or A=V/R if you move it around. if you plug that into your equation W = V*A, W=V*(V/R), that make it W=V*V/R or W=V^2/R. The resistance values I got from the manual linked below. The DC element's resistance should be 1.15 Ohms and the AC's is 92 Ohms. In this instance the current is dictated by the resistance.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... UWEBgfvtuQ

[skater]

I was going to put in a 12V to 15V converter at the fridge and I was measuring around and noticed that the voltage behind the fridge did not change when the engine was on and someone today posted about having the same problem so I will try to fix that. I'm mentioning this because if the alternator is actually connected to the house battery, then the voltage should be much higher, 14V or above so the fridge should operate much better. For instance, Wattage = V^2/R so 12^2/1.15=125W but if the voltage is 14 then 14^2/1.15= 170W which is actually more than the AC wattage at 120^2/92= 157W.

It depends on how many amps it's drawing, though, right? Where did you get the 1.15 value for R?

I've always used W= V*A = 12 volts * 10 amps (if memory serves) = 120 watts. 120 volts * 3 amps = 360 watts.

So V=I(A) x R or A=V/R if you move it around. if you plug that into your equation W = V*A, W=V*(V/R), that make it W=V*V/R or W=V^2/R. The resistance values I got from the manual linked below. The DC element's resistance should be 1.15 Ohms and the AC's is 92 Ohms. In this instance the current is dictated by the resistance.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... UWEBgfvtuQ

Interesting. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the 12 volt mode is that the wiring is too small.

[tdashmike]

Interesting. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the 12 volt mode is that the wiring is too small.

Well, I'll check the voltage back there when I have it fixed and report back.

EDIT:
What voltage are you getting at the fridge when the engine is revved? Thanks.

[skater]

Interesting. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the 12 volt mode is that the wiring is too small.

Well, I'll check the voltage back there when I have it fixed and report back.

EDIT:
What voltage are you getting at the fridge when the engine is revved? Thanks.

It could be a while until I get this answer. I’m not going to have much time to work on it for a few weeks.

[skater]

I haven't had the chance to touch the van since July!

But a passing comment on reddit caused someone to suggest that the coil might be bad, which is causing it to stall once it warms up. I bought a new coil today and hope to get it installed Friday...and hopefully it'll stay running!

[skater]

New coil installed, and it idled for 51 minutes yesterday without stalling...so I'm hoping that problem is fixed.

New problem: Our (recently adopted) dog was so comfortable in the driver's seat, it took 10 minutes of coaxing to get him to leave the camper!

[190-b-651]

New coil installed, and it idled for 51 minutes yesterday without stalling...so I'm hoping that problem is fixed.

New problem: Our (recently adopted) dog was so comfortable in the driver's seat, it took 10 minutes of coaxing to get him to leave the camper!

Skater ive had the same problem with a old 65 Cadillac when she got warm the coil would fail took a while to figure out. Hopefully your in business now. Sounds like you have a new b190 mascot lol..

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[skater]

I haven't updated this lately, mostly because I haven't done much to it lately, but I got a few minutes to play over the weekend. I installed the fridge fans and upper vent, so the camper can now be driven again! I need to take it out for some drive time.

[skater]

I played around with it for an hour or two today...

First, it wouldn’t start. Grr. Then, when it did, it was definitely missing a cylinder or two. I’m guessing (hoping) cap and rotor, probably damp in there with all of the snow and rain we had yesterday. I have a new set, just need to install them. It did eventually get running on all 8 cylinders.

Then I decided to fight the generator, because that’s never frustrating. It wouldn’t start, or it would start and die, so I decided to finally swap in the new fuel filter I had. Those are quite a PITA to change, by the way. There’s very little room to work to get the fuel line under the filter installed. I don’t know why Onan didn’t give an extra half inch (or more) of hose that would have helped immensely. When I finally got it started, it would surge and die, so the carb is probably plugged again. I’m going to get some Seafoam and try what they recommend, but I have this feeling I’m going to be pulling the generator out and replacing the carb.

If your generator is running well, exercise it regularly! I came across a video that helps explain why they’re so prone to gumming up. First, they have small jets and such, and, second, gas can evaporate from the carb while it’s not being used, which leaves behind sludge-ier gasoline.

I found a place I can mount the battery minder, but I also want to wire up a proper outlet for it (and the converter) to plug into. I might use one of those low-profile on-wall wiring outlets. I also need to figure out where I’m going to connect it to the engine battery; there has to be a constant-power source that’s convenient.

[skater]

Today I replaced the cap and rotor, it still had a miss when I ran it.

I also started replacing the window gaskets and did the couch window. The fixed windows are easy to do, but the slider window is much harder. In both cases the best technique seemed to be to sharply angle the gasket (90 degrees) as you force it into the track with your thumb. I plan to pick up some silicone lubricant and some sort of roller to make it easier to apply pressure. My thumbs can't stand up to that. At least I have the biggest one done! I'm also using my air compressor to blow out the tracks after removing the old gaskets, and making sure the drains are clear.

[190-b-651]

Skater are you talking about the outer gasket that goes between the frame and the glass at 45°?

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